Retrofit the Kit Tudor Dollhouse: Part 8 Details, Details - Real Good Toys Country Tudor CC15

Finalizing those detail concepts that have been in my head:

Window and Door Glass...

 

INSTRUCTION DEVIATION: The kit has plain "glass" and mullions to suggest divided lights. Of course the 2nd floor windows were completely blown out to accommodate the bay window.

• Left pict: Checking size and placement of a diamond pattern printed from the www.
• Middle pict: Plastic window anchored to pattern and metal tape applied over pattern lines.
• Right pict: Completed windows. Trims anchor the windows in their openings.

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 ... and Finish the Door...

INSTRUCTION DEVIATION: Replaced the kit door with a Houseworks Dutch door (the kit door was used earlier to create the stair landing).

• Left pict: Purchased crossbuck Dutch door, Houseworks.
• Middle pict: Crossbuck and mullions removed, hinge side swapped and door stained.
• Right pict: Bottom Dutch fitted out with trim to cover crossbuck area.

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  Working On the Door Wall...

A piece of trim is placed under the Door Wall for needed clearance. The Door Wall will be on side hinges.

So now it's just putting into practice, once again, methods developed, to finish that fourth wall, the Door Wall. Inside and out.

I try to keep steps in order for this massive Door Wall of three floors and an outside:

1. Install 1st fl. crown with Door Wall taped on (left upper pict).
2. Mark final base molding and 2nd fl. crown lines (middle upper pict).
3. Untape Door Wall. Gather courage.
4. Glue and set in the bay (see picture at bottom of list).
5. Paper the inside walls based on marked lines and the wainscotting height.
6. Paper the outside where needed (the door and window trims should cover the raw edges when installed) with brick wallpaper using Yes glue (right upper pict).
7. Set and glue the door (it's trim will cover the wallpapers on both sides).
8. Install the wainscotting and trim of all floors on the inside wall door, overlapping the wallpapers and such.
9. Poly the entire inside.

Gluing in the bay window before trimming the inside.

Ta Da!! The finished inside of the Door Wall!

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Stairs: Finishing the Banister... 

 

INSTRUCTION DEVIATION: Replaced the kit's banister with a Houseworks banister set.

• Left pict: Measuring, creating a template, gluing and clamping.
• Right pict: Polying before installation (and a couple of extra items).
• Bottom pict: Banister installed on the outside of the stairwell with glue.

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Installing the Back (yay!)...

The back is glued and carefully nailed into the sides and floor. Finally!!


OK, good enough for now!

Retrofit the Kit Tudor Dollhouse: Part 5 Making Walls Out of Moehills - Real Good Toys Country Tudor CC15

Take a breath!!! 

Well, once again, uncharted territory. At least it includes fabric, clamps, glue and patience. Oh, and a glue rag, don't forget to have the nice, wet glue rag ready!

Breaking Down the Walls Of Unconfidence!

(or, Breaking Down the Wall Treatment Construction)

 

INSTRUCTIONS ALTERATION: Here I've strayed from the RGT CC15 directions (I think this will be an ongoing step!), I have not attached the back. In part 4 I decided to leave the home open, back and front, for now, so I can fit and clamp the wall treatments more accurately and successfully.

Straightening the design. The weave of the fabric is not square with the print. Oh well!! Gluin' up with Yes Paste.

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Moment Of Truth:

 

I've made a few cuts with a craft blade to the wainscot panels and wall mullions and have done a dry test of position before adhering the pieces. I've used Aileen's Clear Gel Tacky Glue to glue down the crown, wainscot and wall mullions. Wood glue seemed to curl the edges of the 1/16" wainscot and mullions pieces too much. Aileen's Gel had a more consistent initial grip and quick drying time whilst clamped.

Clamping through the front and back of the assembled part of the home to hold the wainscot panels tightly while drying.

Clamping the wainscot panels of the back.

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Ta Da!!!!

 

I've dry fitted and glued down the "chair rail" pieces to finish off the 1st floor wall treatment. Except for the front panel, the 1st floor inside is done. I'm still debating on a possible ceiling treatment...

INSTRUCTIONS ALTERATION: I left off the kit's "hinge blocks" along the inside front wall edges. They were used in Part 4's instructions to set the height of the ceiling. Upon measuring, I determined the depth the hinge screws will be taken up by the timber trim thickness on the outside of the home, so don't need em'. They protrude 1 1/2" into the wall area, taking up a lot of usable wall space. I think it looks better without them as well.

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Much Thinkin' and Planning To Do

Well, here is a look at the final 4 of the 8 contenders for the 2nd floor, bedroom wall paper. I'm using the Barton Tudor bed, a Napoleon and Josephine porcelain table set and a slipper tub to compare my choices. Not having a wallpaper figured out has really slowed down my progress!

Oye!!! 

UL: Banburry  UR: Palais  LL: Gold Ring  LR: Gold Leaf

 So, what do you think? Be my guest and leave me a comment with what you think is best!!

 

Beware thoughts!!

I know the 1st floor, especially, will be very dark so I'm toying with wiring for lights. Oh, that seems like it could be a big waste of money and time!!!! What am I thinking!!